Review: Naturopathica Vitamin C15 Wrinkle Repair Serum

Naturopathica was not on my radar at all until I began working at my last job. As it is one of the brands they carry, we were treated to training on their product line, and I was able to nab this serum as gratis (this is a common practice in our industry). We were told by our instructor that this serum changes color over time but it isn’t indicative of oxidation or expiration. Given what we know about the difficulty of achieving stability in product formulations for vitamin C serums, I think we can conclude that probably isn’t true, but I’m sure she just relayed the information she was told. She raved about this product so I wanted to give it a try.

After the first use, it changed from a pale translucent color to light yellow. As time wore on, it did continue to darken to an orange shade, though I must admit I stretched the life of this bottle longer than necessary. It had a thin yet pleasant gel texture. It absorbs quickly so the wait time for applying the next product is short.

Ingredients

Water/Aqua/Eau, Propanediol, 15% Ascorbic Acid, Ergothioneine, Glycerin, Beta Glucan, Tocopherol, Cymbopogon Martini (Palmarosa) Oil, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Bisabolol, Allantoin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil, Phenethyl Alcohol, Sodium Hydroxide, Acacia Senegal Gum, Xanthan Gum

15% ascorbic acid: During a class with another brand, I learned that ascorbic acid serums are often formulated with a high percentage due to oxidation, resulting in diminished efficacy. Water is present in this formula, which causes instability.

Ergothioneine: An antioxidant found in mushrooms and oat bran. It transfers fatty acids to aid skin in producing oxygen more efficiently. In short, it reduces photodamage and other signs of aging.

Tocopherol: A form of vitamin E, another antioxidant. This, paired with ergothioneine, enhances the effects of vitamin C and prevents loss of elasticity.

For skin soothing properties, bisabolol, beta glucan, allantoin, and anthemis nobilis flower oil are present.

This serum is not totally devoid of preservatives. Phenethyl alcohol and sodium hydroxide were used, in lieu of more reliable parabens. Tocopherol is also sometimes used as a preservative.

Results

When I used this serum consistently, my skin did appear to be sufficiently hydrated, had smoother texture, and had a more even tone overall. Reduction of lines was evident. I did not feel any of the tingling or sensitivity that is a common side affect of L-ascorbic acid. I have not seen my dark spots diminish significantly from vitamin C serums alone. I typically always have other actives in my routine that contribute to dark spot reduction. However, there has been an increase in spots since I stopped using this serum, despite having almost no sun exposure during quarantine.

Conclusion

I did enjoy this serum but I have mixed feelings. Would I purchase this myself? Not likely. When I received this product in 2019, it was $115. It has since been renamed and repackaged. The price has been raised to $122, with no apparent changes to the list of ingredients, though I suppose it’s possible that the formula has been altered in some way. There is a plethora of alternatives that are more stable and within my budget. I’m sure I’ll be just as satisfied with another option.